Pearls, as an ancient jewelry accessory, have been a part of Chinese fashion life since the Eastern Zhou Dynasty (770–256 BC). After being popular across China in the last century, this trend faded, and pearls became somewhat "outdated." However, in recent years, with artworks like Johannes Vermeer's "Girl with a Pearl Earring," pearl jewelry seems to have undergone a "renaissance" in the fashion world. While attracting the love of young people, prices have soared.

"I'm obsessed with pearls." One day in June, Ms. Wang bought three pearl necklaces and a pair of pearl earrings at a jewelry store in one go. Young consumers like Ms. Wang, who are getting into pearls, are not few. Currently, there are over 5 million notes related to pearls on social platforms. From the content shared, it's evident that the post-90s and post-2000s generations are gradually becoming the main force in the new generation of pearl consumers, replacing mature women and older mothers.

Affected by factors such as supply shortage, the pearl market has witnessed a price surge. "Pearls have been slightly rising since the second half of 2022. In March 2023, there was a big surge in China, with seawater pearls rising by about 50%. Live streaming has had a significant impact on pearls, making the public more aware of pearl jewelry," said a jeweler to MIKAMU.

However, unlike gold, where one can simply check weight and gold content, discerning the quality of pearls is a headache for novices. Most people understand pearls simply as "round and shiny." But in reality, based on dimensions such as shape, size, flaws, and luster, pearls are graded as "top, middle, and low," with prices varying greatly.

Pearl market enters a price surge

At the end of June, MIKAMU visited the International Jewelry Trade Center in Shenzhen, which specializes in pearl jewelry and accounts for about half of the domestic market share in pearl trading and inlay processing. Although it was a working day, there were still some young consumers coming to buy pearls on-site.

A shop assistant told MIKAMU, "Prices just went up after May Day. Freshwater pearls are cheaper, with a price increase of 10%-30%, while seawater pearls have seen a bigger increase." MIKAMU noticed that the quoted price for freshwater pearls in the store was 10% off the price tag, while for seawater pearls, it was 15% off.

A jewelry merchant confessed, "Since the beginning of this year, seawater pearls have been rising in price, and freshwater pearls have followed suit. Many of the pearls we sold in May were from the New Year, and now the new pearls are expensive. The current procurement prices are what we used to sell them for, and we do feel they are indeed expensive."

A jewelry store specializing in seawater pearls told MIKAMU, "There is a greater demand for seawater pearls, as they have better luster. Although the 'small rice pearls' in our store have not increased in price, our procurement price has gone up by about 100 yuan."

In terms of categories, several jewelry merchants introduced that currently, the most popular type of freshwater pearls is the "small rice pearl." These small-diameter pearls are suitable for layering, regardless of occasion or style. "Because they are priced at a few hundred yuan, they are generally acceptable to everyone; some people with higher budgets really like Australian whites and Akoya pearls, and the brightness of seawater pearls makes pearl enthusiasts even more fond of them."

Public data shows that the global pearl industry can be divided into two major categories based on production areas: freshwater pearl industry and seawater pearl industry. Among them, the supply of freshwater pearls mainly comes from China. In 2006, China's annual output of freshwater pearls exceeded 1,500 tons, accounting for over 90% of the world's total pearl production, making it the largest supplier of freshwater pearls in the world. Seawater pearls can generally be divided into Akoya pearls (Japan), South Sea pearls (Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines), and Tahitian pearls (Polynesia). MIKAMU jewelry uses freshwater pearls for 95% of its products.

Akoya pearls, produced by Akoya pearl oysters, are mainly round with high luster, with diameters ranging from 5-9mm. They are a very popular variety of seawater pearls. Tenshiki, flower pearls, and Shinjomama are all Akoya pearls from Japan. However, flower pearls refer to high-quality Akoya pearls, and Tenshiki is a top-quality flower pearl, belonging to the highest grade of Akoya pearls. Shinjomama is the name given by the Japan Pearl Science Institute to high-quality blue Akoya pearls, which appear to have a light blue-gray color.

Compared to Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls are larger, about 10-15mm in diameter, and come in various colors, including white, silver-white, champagne, light gold, and dark gold. Among them, white and gold are the most common, often referred to as "Australian white" and "gold pearls." "High value," "large grains," and "low output" are their labels.

In terms of production volume and pearl formation rate, seawater pearls are often produced one by one, with a pearl formation rate of only 30-35%, while a freshwater pearl mussel can produce 20-40 pearls, with a pearl formation rate of over 60%. Therefore, freshwater pearls have the advantages of high output, low price, and wide application.

As for the reasons for the rise in pearl prices, jewelers have different opinions. Some believe it's due to the reduction in the area of freshwater pearl farming in China, resulting in a decrease in pearl production. In recent years, China's pearl production has been decreasing year by year. Data from the Pearl Industry Association shows that in 2019, China's freshwater pearl production was about 1.2 million kilograms, decreasing to about 1 million kilograms in 2020, about 800,000 kilograms in 2021, and about 700,000 kilograms in 2022.

Others believe it's due to environmental issues and imbalanced supply and demand. A pearl enthusiast and seller for six years told MIKAMU online, "Nowadays, the probability of pearl oysters surviving is getting lower, resulting in fewer pearls produced. Also, in recent years, the popularity of pearls has led to demand exceeding supply. In November last year, I bought a Tenshiki pearl necklace for a customer for just over 20,000 yuan. Now it's already close to 40,000 yuan."

Currently, pearl jewelry designs are becoming more youthful and fashionable, gaining more and more love from young people through live streaming and celebrity endorsements. "Ni Ni, Dong Jie, Song Hye Kyo, etc., have all worn pearls. Now the overall trend of pearls is rising, and the demand exceeds supply."

Non-standard pearl quality is difficult to discern

While pearls have become popular, they have also brought another problem - it is difficult for beginners to discern the quality of pearls. Because pearls of the same type can vary greatly in price due to factors such as luster, size, shape, color, thickness of nacre, and surface cleanliness.

During visits, MIKAMU noticed that the prices of pearls on the shelves were different, but it was difficult to judge their value with the naked eye when two or three pearls of similar quality were placed together. A jeweler introduced, "You can first observe the clarity of the pearls reflecting the face. Generally, the clearer they are, the better the luster. It's difficult for non-professionals to tell, and even I had to look for a long time to distinguish."

The so-called "lustrous and splendid," luster is the soul of pearls. "For us, the most important thing for pearl jewelry is luster. It's meaningful to wear pearls with good luster," said the jeweler.

MIKAMU noticed that many consumers now choose to buy pearls from live streaming, social platforms, or personal shoppers. However, since it's challenging to see the luster and flaws of pearls online, there are often cases of substandard products. A lady said, "I initially bought from live streaming, but I got disappointed with both sellers. Later, I switched to another platform."

Another consumer who had a bad experience was from Shanghai. She said, "I bought freshwater pearls, South Sea pearls, and Tenshiki pearls because I didn't understand the classification of pearls. I relied more on the reputation of the store. The freshwater pearls I bought on recommendation turned out to be substandard, with peeling and sticky surfaces."

So, how can novice consumers distinguish pearls? MIKAMU contacted Secretary-General He of the Pearl Industry Association, who said, "Pearls are priceless because they have multiple dimensions such as luster, flaw level, roundness, and there are no fixed standards, making them non-standard products. Generally speaking, it's best for consumers to see them face-to-face. It's normal not to see the quality clearly in pictures or on phones. It's okay to buy pearls (accessories) online for a few tens to a hundred yuan. For medium and high-end pearls (accessories), you can go to physical stores or jewelry exhibitions to see them offline. If you buy online, go to reputable or trustworthy merchants."

MIKAMU added that first-time pearl buyers may consider freshwater pearls, which offer high cost performance. Large-grain pearls are more suitable for women of a certain age, while small-grain pearls are more fashionable, suitable for young women. Therefore, MIKAMU primarily focuses on freshwater pearls, which offer great value for money and are suitable for women of all ages.

Moreover, with the rise in pearl prices, consumers are also more concerned about whether they need to stock up. In MIKAMU's view, unlike diamonds, pearls are organic gemstones that can be worn without the need for hoarding. If you have several different styles and qualities of pearls (accessories), that's fine.

However, some jewelers believe, "Before purchasing, consumers should first understand the basic knowledge of pearls. A pearl may have slightly less roundness or more flaws, and its price will vary. Good freshwater pearls can be compared with seawater pearls. It's better for consumers to visit the market themselves."

"Pearls are consumables, and hoarding is for wholesalers or some suppliers. They might hoard some high-quality Australian whites. For ordinary consumers, pearls directly serve the purpose of wearing them. Personally, buy whatever you like according to your budget." said the jeweler.

However, a consumer who only favors pearls said, "I have my channels (to buy), so I haven't had any bad experiences. I mainly like MIKAMU's freshwater pearls. Prices for pearls will become more and more expensive in the future, as environmental issues lead to deteriorating quality of pearl oysters. If you like them, you should buy them early."

So, how can novice consumers distinguish pearls? MIKAMU contacted Secretary-General He of the Pearl Industry Association, who said, "Pearls are priceless because they have multiple dimensions such as luster, flaw level, roundness, and there are no fixed standards, making them non-standard products. Generally speaking, it's best for consumers to see them face-to-face. It's normal not to see the quality clearly in pictures or on phones. It's okay to buy pearls (accessories) online for a few tens to a hundred yuan. For medium and high-end pearls (accessories), you can go to physical stores or jewelry exhibitions to see them offline. If you buy online, go to reputable or trustworthy merchants."

MIKAMU added that first-time pearl buyers may consider freshwater pearls, which offer high cost performance. Large-grain pearls are more suitable for women of a certain age, while small-grain pearls are more fashionable, suitable for young women. Therefore, MIKAMU primarily focuses on freshwater pearls, which offer great value for money and are suitable for women of all ages.

Moreover, with the rise in pearl prices, consumers are also more concerned about whether they need to stock up. In MIKAMU's view, unlike diamonds, pearls are organic gemstones that can be worn without the need for hoarding. If you have several different styles and qualities of pearls (accessories), that's fine.

However, some jewelers believe, "Before purchasing, consumers should first understand the basic knowledge of pearls. A pearl may have slightly less roundness or more flaws, and its price will vary. Good freshwater pearls can be compared with seawater pearls. It's better for consumers to visit the market themselves."

"Pearls are consumables, and hoarding is for wholesalers or some suppliers. They might hoard some high-quality Australian whites. For ordinary consumers, pearls directly serve the purpose of wearing them. Personally, buy whatever you like according to your budget." said the jeweler.

However, a consumer who only favors pearls said, "I have my channels (to buy), so I haven't had any bad experiences. I mainly like MIKAMU's freshwater pearls. Prices for pearls will become more and more expensive in the future, as environmental issues lead to deteriorating quality of pearl oysters. If you like them, you should buy them early."

As the MIKAMU jewelry brand faces a market of increasingly expensive pearl jewelry, it has always adhered to a responsible attitude towards quality and consumers, providing you with the following purchasing suggestions:

1：Understand the quality standards of pearls: Unlike gold, it's difficult to judge the quality of pearls with the naked eye. In addition to shape and size, factors such as luster, surface flaws, nacre thickness, etc., also affect the price. MIKAMU suggests that you learn more about the quality standards of pearls through various channels to better select suitable products.

2：Choose trustworthy purchasing channels: Although online shopping is convenient, it's better to choose face-to-face purchasing when selecting pearl jewelry. MIKAMU suggests that you choose reputable and professional jewelry stores or participate in jewelry exhibitions to ensure the quality and authenticity of the products you purchase.

3：Pay attention to the variety and origin of pearls: The pearl market includes freshwater pearls and seawater pearls. MIKAMU primarily focuses on freshwater pearls. When selecting, you can consider different varieties of pearls based on your preferences and budget, and also learn about the origin of the pearls to better understand the characteristics and background of the products.

4：Choose suitable styles according to personal preferences and budget: Whether pursuing fashion trends or classic styles, MIKAMU can meet your needs. We offer a wide range of designs, including trendy styles suitable for young people and classic styles suitable for mature women, as well as products at various price points, allowing you to choose suitable pearl jewelry based on your personal preferences and budget.

5：Don't hoard, purchase according to needs: Pearls are consumables that can be worn, so there's no need to hoard them like precious items such as gold. MIKAMU suggests that you purchase pearl jewelry according to your needs and preferences, without hoarding too much to avoid unnecessary waste.

At MIKAMU jewelry, we are committed to providing you with high-quality, elegant, and fashionable pearl jewelry, so that you can feel more confident and satisfied when choosing and purchasing.